The John Lobb factory is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen double monks gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez model, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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