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The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.

Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.

Production is carefully restricted, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.

As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.

The collection combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The City II Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.

Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb continues to be one of the pillars in English shoemaking.

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